Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Entdeckungsreisen--A European Transition out of China

"The real journeys of discovery do not exist in learning new lands, rather in seeing something with new eyes."

After two years teaching English, I left China on July 6 and flew into the West.  (This option, somehow, was dramatically cheaper than flying over the Pacific.)  I planned a 3 week excursion in Europe to visit friends, eat great food, and see a new country--Italy.

I now sit back in Minnesota among the same landscape with which I grew up.  Now, both China and Europe exist to me only in my photos and memories.

That is precisely what I wish to share here.  The trip is about food and friends, right?  Let's talk cuisine!

Borscht in Moscow (flight layover)


  Mexican in Zurich: The night I arrived, my incredible and patient friend, Philipp, met me in the Zurich Airport to bring me to a Mexican restaurant all while enduring my broken German--broken not with English but with Chinese.  He and his sister, Suzy, would sit for minutes at a time as I struggled to bring my thoughts out of Chinese. Poor guy; thank goodness he's so patient.

Handmade cake under the guidance of Suzy--she's a scientist, so she's probably better with recipes and measurements than either of the finance guys in the room. Yet, when baking the cake, she revealed her philosophy as "I'm going with my gut on all of this."

Then there was cappuccino and cookies from Philipp's mother, Gaby.  Don't forget that this balcony then overlooks the herrlich black forest.  With the Schöttlers as great company and this incredible view, this place beats Paris and Venice.  I went to both on this trip; trust me.

3 years ago I promised Philipp's grandmother that I would return and have more cake. I kept my word.  For the visit, she prepared an delectable cherry cake.
German grandmothers bake great cake; thanks, Oma Otti!

Klaus and Gaby--Philipp's parents, took me into the black forest and on the hillside brought me to a restaurant that defines "Urig."  (There is no good English translation; the closest are "rustic, earthy, and quaint.")  The sign behind me reads "Drinking beer helps the rural economy."  Thus, cheers.

 From the Black Forest around Steinen, I moved to the city in which I studied abroad five years ago--Freiburg.

There was rotwurst at the Muenster Platz--the space around the Freiburg Cathedral.  Every morning there is a market.  I was a frequent visitor when studying in this city.
Note that the sausage is folded in half and it still hangs over the bun.

Flammkuchen at Schlappen--one of the best Uni bars in Freiburg. 


Paris was filled with croissants,

and lovable barrista-made artistic espressos

There were escargot

And mussels galore,

and Macaroons like the queen would eat.

Stuttgart offered Maultaschen with melted cheese.
Then came käsespätzle (one of my absolute favorites)


and Currywurst.

I found fleischkäse (which translates as Flesh Cheese, but it's just a delicious version of meatloaf)

In the oldest Weinstube of Stuttgart, there was the traditional käsespätzle with salad, pilsner, Schwäbisch waitress (who's been there likely as long as the establishment.  She was the same waitress I remember from 3 years ago.)

Then off to Crailsheim for a "gourmet" breakfast with gourmet company.  Atmosphere makes the food.


Basel offered Brezel (pretzels) for breakfast.

Then off to Venice for prosciutto e melone.

Swig it down with a litre of milk--something I hadn't had for the past year.

Next, try the pate.  I heard spreadable meat and jumped at the chance.  After a year in Germany, spreadable meat is actually one of my favorite bread toppings.

Follow this with risotto (a bit too creamy, if I may say.  Should I have opted for the pizza as my counterpart did?)

In Rome I discovered Italians prefer to drink their hummus?  This liter of ground chickpeas was somehow the right serving for these few slices of bread.  

Fortunately, the restaurant excused their mistake by providing a complimentary limoncello.

Making fresh salad requires fresh mozzarella--only available in a bag of water.

Francesca, a friend from the hostel, taught me how a real Italian cooks dinner.  That is after she laughed at me for asking, "Why does the cheese come in water?"

A Roman water fountain tradition.  Budget travelers pay attention.
Note the small hole atop the spout.  These clean water sources are available by the thousands throughout the city.

Gotta get Gnocci.
...and finish with a tiramisu.
Then in Naples, do not miss the devilishly good pizza, here, at its birthplace.

Now unbuckle the top button as that was a whirlwind of cuisine and calories.  Too delicious to forget, these flavors are what carry me through my current "healthy" diet of grilled chicken breasts, spinach leaves, and plain spaghetti. 

If anyone wonders what I saw along the trip, I reply "Google it."  The sites are stunning in person, but someone somewhere undoubtedly captured a better image than I did.  This trip was about something more. 

Bon appetit!
Rick